“Is he from ‘ere or something?” we overhear a (very) Scouse bloke query as we stroll the iconic Shambles to their partner.
“Who?”, they reply.
“”arry Potter”.
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First thing to get out of the way here: Harry Potter is not a real person. But secondly, he was born in a fictional village of Godric’s Hollow. Not York, which is where we find ourselves.
However it is no surprise that wandering this stunning city’s streets, fantastical stories spring to the mind of its visitors. With every nook and cranny steeped in history, alongside the gorgeous pubs and the lavish shopping to be had, it’s a lovely place to spend some time.
It was perhaps best summed up by a pair of American tourists stopping to ask for directions who remarked: “Oh my goodness… it’s so pretty!”.
There’s a quiet, reflective moment to be had outside York Minster
Amid the slow-motion hustle and bustle, a small army of foreign tourists are afoot wielding iPhone 15s working them hard as they do not fail to miss a single photo opportunity.
There’s also a quiet, reflective moment to be had outside York Minster, which dates back to 1220. While we can’t be 100%, the Paddington Bear statue sat on a bench outside the marvel might not date back that far, but it is equally as popular.
Quite amusingly there’s a 15-plus queue of adults waiting to take turns in snapping photos. Meanwhile school children on a visit to the Gothic-style cathedral pass Paddington completely uninterested.
But every magical adventure needs a Hogwarts, and we find our cosy safe haven away from all the adventuring in the gorgeous Judge’s Lodging, which is tucked in the heart of the action right by the incredible Museum Gardens.
Its courtyard boasts a (crucially) weather-proof “beer garden”, which is encased in essentially one giant umbrella. It goes for the vibe of a snug ski resort with fairy lights, blankets and blasting heaters which in an English January is altogether a very, very agreeable way to enjoy a beer.
The impressive stairway to our room
As we arrive, a staff member insists on carrying our bags up the impressive staircase. I try and say it’s not necessary but I’m simply informed “you are my guest!” as they’re wrestled from me.
Our room overlooks Lendal, a charming pedestrianised street that leads just round the corner to the iconic Betty’s Café Tea Rooms, where a small army of people queue outside.
The beds are splendid… and then there’s the bath, in which you can bathe but also swim because it’s simply gargantuan. But where The Judge’s Lodging really excels is the food, and the warmth of the service.
A proper cup of tea
Breakfast time beckons and we venture into the basement restaurant where we are delighted to be confronted with a “proper”, probably two-litre mug and pots of tea.
Perfect scrambled eggs are served with a beast of a fry up, as well as a mini-buffet of fresh pastries – and after all that we find ourselves unsure if we’re ready to face the day or go back to sleep.
After this I don’t know if I’m ready to face the day or go back to bed
But onwards and upwards and we hit the town. As we walk the streets it’s clear that York is a place that thrives in the atmospheric cold and dark of winter.
For one, you’ve got tour guides dressed in some (we assume) historical attire, but really they would look comfortably at home in Manchester’s Northern Quarter.
Then you’ve got a ghost-themed shop which, based on the age profile of the absolutely massive queue outside we assume is big on the TikTok. There’s a lot going on everywhere you look.
A great way to end a day
As the day draws to a close we end it as all days should end: with a divine sticky toffee pudding, nattering outside in the winter’s cold while The Judge’s Lodging’s outdoor heaters work overtime.
I think I’ll see out the rest of winter here.
Find out more about The Judge’s Lodging and their 20% off sale